What You’ll Need

If size and space matters, the use of the WS2812B LED strip along with fiber optic cable makes a great alternative to the full size LED string. It is however, more expensive to build because of the added cost of the fiber optic cable, but it can greatly reduce the footprint on a wall. Below is a picture of the same map, the one on the right is built using the normal LED string ( WS2811), and the one on the left with the LED strip (WS2812B ) and fiber optic cable.

WS2812B’s LED strips come in various configurations including waterproof versions. The ones needed for this project are not waterproofed and have 144 LED’s per meter. This provides a lot of LED’s in a small form factor. This link shows an example, but there are other sources. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019DYZNU0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

This provides the LED’s needed to cover most any geographical area while not taking up the space that the WS2811’s require. The strip can be cut to reduce the number of LED’s used with no adverse effects. Another difference between the two designs is that the WS2811’s use GRB (Green, Red, Blue) arrangements for defining colors in the python code but the WS2812B’s use RGB (Red, Green, Blue). So if the colors from the LED’s are not what is expected, please check the color definitions in the settings.

The next step was to create mounts and holders that would secure the LED strips to the inside of the map’s frame, and also to support the Fiber Optic cable as it is runs from the LED strip out to the proper location on the map. To tackle this, I had to design a few 3D printed parts. Using a Thingiverse submission (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3667217) as inspiration I created a number of parts necessary to properly support the LED’s and Fiber Optics. The .STL files are available from the ‘Downloads‘ page.

Being a novice at 3D printing and CAD designing I learned to use an online program called Onshape (onshape.com). This proved to be a great place to start. They provide a multitude of videos and training materials. It took a while to understand the program but after a while I was designing simple parts to achieve what I needed. From there it was simply a matter of printing the parts. These parts can be printed using any of a number of online services that will allow the user to upload the .STL file and then they will send the completed parts via mail. Local Universities and colleges may have a ‘Maker-Lab’ available as well. I’ve had great success using our local college’s services.

I found that 3D printed parts are not as accurate as the CAD dimensions depict, so after printing the parts I found it necessary to clean out the holes where the 3mm fiber optic cable would pass through. Using a drill bit made quick work of this.

The 3D parts include;

  • Rail – To hold the LED strip in place. There are two, one is straight and the other is 90 degrees to transition around the corner of the frame.
  • LED Clips – Sandwiches the LED strip in place and provides a holder for the fiber.
  • 90 Degree Support – For fiber optics to transition 90 degrees through the face of the map.
  • Collet – Can be used to lock fiber optic cable in place, but optional.
  • Collar – To offer a finished look to the map if desired. This will recess into the 90 degree support to provide for proper alignment. Optional.
  • Tools – A pusher tool to help seat the collars into the hole in the map, and cutter jig to cleanly cut the fiber at 90 degrees. This is optional as well.

There are 2 main categories of fiber optics; End Glow and Side Glow. I found Side Glow to be much easier to work with since it is more flexible than End Glow. It’s available in various diameters, but I found 3 mm to work best for the size map I was building.

Visit https://thefiberopticstore.com/product-category/side-glow/ for more information and ordering details. This cable is also available through Amazon, AliExpress and Banggood at various prices and delivery times.

Expect to use on average 12” or so of fiber optic cable for each airport to be lit. So a map using 50 airports and a legend would need 50+ feet of fiber optic cable to complete the build.

Once these parts were printed I built the map itself. I followed the instructions given at www.livesectional.com to create the map and frame, along with the setup of the electronics and wiring.

I used ⅛” Hardboard and ¾” MDF board from Home Depot. I cut the MDF into 1.75” strips to create the frame. This frame was glued and brad nailed to the Hardboard creating the surface to glue the printed sectional map to using spray adhesive. Hardboard provides an excellent smooth surface to glue to.

The parts were then fitted on the board and the rails screwed to the inside of the frame. The fiber optic cable was then cut to length and installed. Once everything was in place, I used hot glue to secure the 90 degree mounts to the inside surface of the map. I drilled a hole at the bottom of the frame to accommodate the power cord.

The next picture shows the look of side glow fiber optic cable with LED’s in the ON position.

I used a Pi Zero because of its smaller size and cheaper price. It’s slower to boot but runs the script well.

I chose to use a 74AHCT125 level converter chip rather than use a Diode. I built a simple circuit board with the level converter chip along with momentary switches to power on/off the board as well.

You can see how both the level converter and the diode are wired in the circuit at; https://learn.adafruit.com/neopixels-on-raspberry-pi/raspberry-pi-wiring.

Be sure to ground the Pi to the LED’s otherwise unexpected results will occur. In fact if you find that the lights are not working properly, chances are very good that there is not a ground in place between the LED strip and the Pi. For instance, if the LED’s flash a color, or go off then back on then it is typically a ground issue. It can also be caused by poor connections on the prototyping board. So you may need to move to different holes on the board.

Another note, I found that it was sufficient to supply 5v to one or both of the 5v GPIO pins to power the Pi Zero, rather than needing two separate power supplies. This simplified the wiring and made it cleaner on the back side of the map.

I followed the instructions at www.livesectional.com for writing the image file to the microSD card and the configuration of the necessary scripts. As a reminder, this model of addressable LED’s require the colors to be defined in RGB format, i.e. (255,0,0) = Red.

Below is a picture of the finished Fiber Optic Live Sectional Map. The size of this map is 20” tall by 16” wide.

The building process was straightforward, albeit time consuming. Positioning the 90 degree mounts took some pre-planning before gluing to be sure that airports close to each other could be accommodated properly.

The Legend positions were too close together to use the 90 degree mounts, so I had to secure the cables together for stability. I pushed the fiber optic cable about ¼ inch past the map’s surface then used the cutting jig I 3D printed to cut them all to ⅛ inch. This provided a clean and consistent look. Also using a hot knife will cut the ends of the fiber optic cable quite cleanly.

Overall I was very pleased with the results. I liked the smaller size and the fiber optic cable did a great job of lighting each airport. I think this is an excellent way to build a smaller Live Sectional Map.

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