Shopping List ~$80
This build is meant to be a no frills, inexpensive way to put together a Live Sectional Map. This map can be built for around $80. There’s no drilling for the LED’s involved, and the parts are readily available. The idea came from a visit to Michael’s Art Supply and Framing Store. A 27×40 Poster Frame was available for $16. And at times can be cheaper with 2 for 1 deals or a 20% off coupon they often publish.
This style of poster frame uses frame rails that sandwiches a poster between the clear plastic front with a cardboard back. So substituting the cardboard backing with a clear piece of plastic or plexi-glass, would be fairly easy to mount the LED’s to the back plastic which would then shine the LED light through to the front.
The only hiccup was how to mount the LED bulb on the back so it provided a nice defined circle of light. By designing a LED mount we can achieve both. This part is 3D printed. If the builder needs to have them printed, expect to pay around $12 depending on the number needed. Another issue was the cost of Plexi-glass. Since the idea is to make this project as inexpensive as possible it was decided to try using the plastic lens used as a diffuser for Fluorescent light fixtures. So for $13 we have the plastic backing needed.
The other parts include the WS2811 strand of LED’s for about $15, a Raspberry Pi Zero (RPI) for around $15, a 5v 10 Amp Power Supply for around $15, level converter chip for around $3, double sided sticky tape for around $6, and various building supplies, spray adhesive and hot glue. Any RPI should work. Click here for a list of items at Amazon.
The 3D printed part may seem to be a non-starter for some, but the reality is there are plenty of online services which will allow you to upload the STL file and specify the number needed and have them shipped. Just Google ‘Online 3D Printing’ and compare prices. Another possible source is the local University, Community College, Library or even a High School. Many have set up ‘Maker Labs’ that are open to the public. You can upload the STL file to them, and they will print them for you.
A couple of tips when 3D printing. Use Black PLA plastic with a Raft, but no supports. Ask them to print it with the small hole pointing down to ensure uniformity in the circumference of the part.
To start the build, print the FAA Map to the size you would like. You can download these maps from the FAA here; https://www.faa.gov/air_traffic/flight_info/aeronav/digital_products/vfr/. If the builder is good with graphics programs, he/she can stitch a few of these together to build a specific area. Another nice choice is to download the Continental US planning map and build a map of the US. Also, adding a map’s legends along the edge gives plenty of room to mount the frame on the back without obstructing airports on the map, and it gives it a nice finished look.
Once printed, purchase the appropriate size poster frame to fit. Michaels has numerous sizes to choose from. Take the measurements of the printed map and cut the 2 plastic pieces to match. Hint; the Fluorescent lens is quite brittle, so take care not to crack it. I’ve tried scoring it and snapping, but found it not to be overly accurate. A clean cut, rather than scoring may work best.
A razor blade, or even a sharp pair of scissors can cut the front plastic piece that came with the poster frame. Hint; leave the protective plastic on the front piece to protect it through the build process. Next, cut the 4 pieces of framing to size and be sure it all fits properly.
There are a couple of ways to transfer the position of the airports desired, assuming the back plastic used is clear, its easiest to lay the back plastic piece on top of map and mark the plastic using a red sharpy. Otherwise, the builder will have to shine a light or laser pointer from the front of the completed map to the back and have another person use a sharpie to mark the location. Either way works fine. Hint; take care not to choose airports that are too close to each other since the 3D printed mounts might interfere with each other. So keep that in mind while marking the plastic.
Using a light coating of spray adhesive, spray the back plastic piece and align the map on to the plastic. Place the front plastic piece on top and finish the frame with the 4 frame pieces on the edges, sandwiching all together. Use painters tape to hold the frame tight in position. Turn the frame over and glue the 4 frame pieces into place using either hot glue or ultraviolet glue for quick hardening. At this point, the builder has a nicely framed Sectional Map. However, as you’ll notice it’s a bit flimsy.
Use ¾” MFD cut into 1 ½” wide strips to create a frame that will be mounted on the back side of the frame. This will provide structural stability and hide the electronics in the back. The builder can spray paint it black if desired. Measure so that the frame is inset at least 1” from all four edges, but not so much as to interfere with mounting the LED’s at the airports desired. Using wood glue, glue the 4 pieces and use a finish nailer to secure each corner. Give the glue 15 minutes to set.
Center the frame on the back of the poster and mark it so that it’s easy to place. Using aggressive double sided tape all along the edge of the wood frame, place it on the back aligning it to the marks. This tape should hold on its own, but it is suggested to put a bead of Hot Glue all along the inner edge of the frame. Put a bunch of books, or other weight on the frame and let it sit for a while to allow the tape to adhere properly.
Now that the map is built it’s time to mount the LED’s and raspberry pi. Put the 3d printed mounts on each LED to be used, be sure to push the bulb all the way down in the mount so its aligned with the small hole in the 3D printed mount. Using the sharpie marks as a guide, run the string strategically to maximize the string so as not to have to either splice the strand or abandon the use one of the LED’s. This may not be possible, but with the design of the mounts, it allows the builder to maximize the length of wire between LED’s.
Alignment can be a bit troublesome, so a template comes with the STL files and only 1 needs to be printed. This will allow the builder to mark the outline of the mount to properly align it with the airport below. Once aligned, hot glue the mount into place. Hold it in place for a bit to allow the glue to set. Continue this process for all remaining airports. Next pick a location to mount the raspberry pi and hot glue it. The use of a RPI mount would make a nice touch to the build.
Find the center of the wood frame on the bottom of the map and mark it. Drill the appropriate size hole to mount the power supply’s female coupler, and then connect the LED’s and power supply to the RPI. If desired, a toggle switch can be installed which could interrupt the 5v from the power supply. Also, it’s possible to add pushbutton switches that will reboot/power off, power on, and refresh FAA data if desired. An ambient light sensor can also be connected to dim the lights when the room lights are turned off. However, the builder will need to find a location to mount it, such as on top of the top rail of the frame.
Finally, it’s a matter of setting up the software. Use the setup guide on livesectional.com to complete the project. Add hanging hardware and it’s done. Enjoy.